Shinonome

Shinonome’s chirimen sansho can be piled onto warm white rice or spooned over chilled tofu as a snack with drinks. Visitors who have bought it praise the delicately seasoned small fish and the subtle aroma of sansho, with a sharper note of heat when you bite into the peppercorns. Diners also describe a soft, moist texture and a gentle balance of sweetness and salt. Rather than putting the pepper’s heat centre stage, this is a dish to savour alongside the flavour of the fish.

Start with a little on freshly cooked rice. One diner enjoyed it with salted kelp, too. On chilled tofu, it makes a different kind of accompaniment to drinks, bringing out the sansho’s fragrance. Trying it in different ways is a good way to find your preferred amount and combination.

Some people buy it as a gift or for home, and takeout is available at the shop. It needs to be refrigerated after purchase; one buyer reported that it keeps for about a week. Rather than buying it well in advance, it may be best to plan around when you expect to eat it.